Wednesday, November 30, 2011

Mt. Olympus West Slabs -- Alpine Style

My infatuation with Mt. Olympus continues. It's such a unique mountain. It's basically right out my door. It is multi-faceted: West Slab, Memorial Couloirs, Apollo, Zeus, Great Chimney, the hiking trail, and more.  There is lots of fun and experience to be had on that mountain.  Monday, I ran up the southern side of it on a trail. Today, Sam and I scratched up the north face aka the "West Slabs" -- alpine style. As I think about it, this year I've traveled the slabs in at least three modes: sticky rubber, skis, and spikes.

Mt. Olympus North Face aka West Slabs
Sam ascending alpine style, November 2011
Me and Tom Diegel simul-soloing in weird clothes, June 2011
Sam skiing the West Slabs, March 2011
I have to say that although alpine style took the longest, it was well worth it.  Jason Dorais and I made an alpine style attempt a few weeks ago, but the ice was thin and we were short on time.  Today, as we approached, it looked like it would be more of the same.  But once we got on the face, we found large ice smears.  Some were fat, some were ok, others were pretty thin.  But, linking up these smears, and delicately making our way up bare slab, we made our way to the top.  I think we climbed 5 pitches on belay, and then simul-climbed the rest.  8 hrs round trip.  Great outing.

This part was fun!  Some real ice.


The valley below.  This ice isn't visible from there.  Today was a classic case of "don't know until you go."
Sam, climbing some slab and ice in spikes.
Sam topping out in the clouds.

Thursday, November 24, 2011

"Skin the Turkey" Thanksgiving Skimo

Starting line of the 2nd annual "Skin the Turkey"
First, happy Thanksgiving to all.  Hopefully everyone had a warm meal and has slept it off by now.  This will be a brief race report of the second annual "Skin the Turkey" informal ski mountaineering race that we are holding in lieu of flag football or a turkey trot 5K.  

This year's venue was the ever welcoming Brighton Ski Resort and the surrounding backcountry.  We had 13 participants and I'm pretty sure everyone had a good time.  Our course began in the parking lot, followed a mix of groomed runs, cat tracks, and skin track to the Millicent Lift.  From there, we ripped skins and descended to the Twin Lakes dam where we skinned up again and made our way to the pass.  Finding coverage less than desirable, we turned it around and skied back to the parking lot where with skis in hand, we ran over to the base of the Great Western lift for the final climb.  The total vertical was on the low end at 3700ish but it seemed appropriate for the mixed crowd of spandex/goretex and race skis/Manaslus.  

In the end, Jason pulled off the victory after going back and forth with Jared and I for the morning.  The Samurai and I entered the last transition together and a spectacular crash while blinded by snow and high winds left me in third.  The others made their way home as the weight (gear) on their feet dictated and found hot cider  or cocoa and pumpkin pie with whipped cream waiting in the back of the Subaru.  
Out of the gate feeling crappy sans warm up


Pumpkin pie out of the back of the Subaru...Sanitary and Delicious!
It was a pretty enjoyable morning on a pretty enjoyable holiday.  Hopefully we'll plan better next year, get the word out sooner, and see some more of you.

Sunday, November 13, 2011

Hard Lessons: The Grand Canyon

Sunrise en route to the GC
The Grand Canyon drew me back again.  Viking Lars flew in after two weeks of training to run the classic R2R2R, and in a blatant attempt at one-upmanship, I was going to attempt the R2R in under 3:19 (Jason's time).  Last minute additions, Jake T and Joe K, filled the car and made for a high level of excitement as they were getting a second chance after being shut down on the drive last week due to snowy roads.  

But, keeping our priorities straight, we snuck in a quick lap on Baldy before driving down.  It was Lars' first ski of the year.  Perfect preparation for a run 16 miles longer than anything he'd done before.  With sore legs and poor training, the former All-American runner turned MMA fighter was in over his head.  Jake and Joe had been running all summer so I knew they'd get the job done but questioned how fast.  Nevertheless, on the drive down I issued a warning: be back at the car by 11:00 PM or get left at the North Rim.  

All of us had commitments early Friday morning and I hoped I wouldn't have to follow through on my threat.  I also hoped I wouldn't be the one getting left out in the cold.  We pulled into Kanab around 11:30PM and found a cheap motel.  The youngsters were soon asleep, leaving Lars to fret about the task at hand and me to battle a GI bug that I must have picked up from some ill advised food choice earlier in the day.  5:30AM came all too quickly and Lars declared that he'd slept for almost a whole hour.  Not good.  

Snowy sunrise over the high plateau en route to the Grand Canyon
Perfect running weather
We hastily packed and dressed for the day with Jake and Joe choosing to represent the JV team by wearing shorts over their tights.  Then it was 80 miles of beautiful scenery, including a gorgeous sunrise over the old burn on the high plateau just before the North Rim.  The open meadows were layered with new snow and a wisp of fog hung in the air.  Passing through I noticed the thermometer read 1 degree Farenheit.  Then 0.  Then -1.  Then -2. Then -3.  And so on until... -12 degrees F.  Huh?   



Snowy conditions at the N. Rim
Fortunately, the temps climbed as we approached the North Rim and reached a balmy 12 degrees at the trailhead.  Eager to get started, the guys jumped out and started down the trail as a pack of 3.  I stretched a bit and then struck out after them, wondering how the snow on the trail would affect my ability to run fast along the descent from the rim.  A few minutes later, I passed the fellas as they jumped out of the way, cheering and hooting me along.  My La Sportiva Crosslites were the right choice for the snow as the burly tread made even high speed switch backs mundane.  


A beautiful wintry morning descent into the Grand Canyon
Jason had given me his splits during his crossing: 45:00 to Cottonwood, 1:37 to the river, and 3:19 to the South Rim.  He had been going for the fastest known crossing time of 3:06 and change but fell short due to poor hydration/nutrition and inadequate specific training.  As a competitive older brother, 3:19 R2R was the goal.  

After having to stop to shed a layer and deal with a blister, I ran through the Cottonwood campground as the watch read 43:23.  Ha, I was ahead of pace...

Then, an emergent bathroom stop was necessary. Then another.  Swearing over lost time, I picked up the pace.  Familiar landmarks were flying by and my watch told me I was still on pace.  Then, while negotiating a rocky section of trail, I caught a toe and felt my center of gravity accelerate ahead of my feet.  I ran faster to get my feet back under me but was only successful in making my impact into the talus slope more dramatic.  Shocked, I rolled over to survey the damage - a bloody arm and a bruised hip, knee, and bilateral shoulders.  Not to mention my smashed ego.  I used to make fun of people who fell running.  Now, it happens with some regularity.  

Bitterly, I could feel the day getting away from me.  The weather was perfect and yet I was managing to fight against myself in every way in a game where each minute counts.  Back on my feet and running, the motivation was gone.  With a new soreness, I jogged the last couple miles to the river, arriving in 1:41.  Decent, but I was too far gone to push hard up the other side.  A man with more character would have gone to failure.  Maybe a man with more character wouldn't try to show up his little brother.  

Sitting down to get water at the river, I felt sorry for myself.  Why did I drive that far and sacrifice time away from Jessie and skiing?  Why such bad timing with the stomach virus or food poisoning?  Why do I keep falling?  Then I remembered where I was and really looked around for the first time since leaving the trailhead.  I remembered I had 3 friends having a grand adventure just up the trail who were discovering the canyon for the first time.  I remembered that I do this stuff because it makes me feel alive and fuels a deep happiness.  

I got up and decided to walk up to the South Rim, planning to regroup with the other guys.  While walking, I noticed the tiered sweep of the land and the snowy conifers capping the Northern rim.  The red sandstone was stunning in contrast to the subdued greens of the sage, freshly invigorated by recent snows and rain.  The day was painfully beautiful with a sharp breeze and a paucity of tourists and mules and I was starting to enjoy myself.  

Alone on the South Rim, I began to wonder about the other guys.  Walking back down the first switchbacks, I suddenly saw two figures moving much too fast to be random tourists.  Now it was my turn to shout encouragement as Jake and Joe strode past, 4:18 into their day.  I quickly asked about Lars and found out they had left him for dead back at the river.  Worried, I walked on, hoping to turn the next bend and see Lars chasing down the others.  

And there he was, just around the next bend.  Head down and jogging, the man had been suffering for hours in solitude.  I cheered him on and he yelled at me to wait for him as the view back across to the North Rim must have been rather demoralizing.  I laid down on a rock to bask in the sun and watch hawks catch thermals above the South Rim.  Some minutes later Jake and Joe came hopping back down the trail, looking cheerful, they asked for the key, saying I had better be back by the 11:00PM deadline.  That would depend on Lars...

Joe descends back to the Colorado River 
Ten minutes later, a rather spry looking Lars came trotting along and we were off.  He had made the South Rim in 4:35 and was intent on gaining bragging rights over another friend of ours.  His goal: 10:57:22.  

We ambled down the South Kaibab trail, catching glimpses of the youngsters below as they switch-backed toward the river.  Soon we were reunited at Phantom Ranch and a game of cat and mouse ensued.  I was continually impressed with all three of the guys as they were all having great days.  Lars, who had run ~10 miles/week over the last month was now 30 miles into this run and still light on his feet.  I caught him craning his neck to look around the next turn, hoping to catch sight of the others.  

And then it happened...  The inevitable implosion.  Walking slowly, his voice told me to go ahead and catch the others.  His face said otherwise.  I ran ahead.  

Catching the others at the Cottonwood campground they too were now dealing with fatigue and walking stretches.  I ran a stretch with the guys to gauge their mood (which was still high) and then sat down to wait for Lars again.  The sun was getting low and would soon be hidden by the towering walls.  

Having eaten his umpteenth gel, he was recovering and fast hiking the up and jogging any flats/down.  Falling into a steady pace, Lars made his push for home.  Over the bridge and through the tunnel it was now getting dark.  Back on snow, the rim felt close but Lars was starting to sway.  I'd given him my poles miles earlier and wonder if he would have collapsed without their support.  At some point we became aware that the moon was full and its powerful beams were reflecting off the snowy slopes.  Marching through the forest I was now content with a day gone awry that had been salvaged by the power of the natural landscape and by sharing the success of others.  

And a success it was.  Lars topped out in 10:36 gaining temporary bragging rights over our friend.  Jake and Joe barely missed their goal of sub 10 hours but had a grand time anyway.  No one missed the 11:00PM deadline and we all rode home with another adventure to remember as we go work, bleary eyed and happy.  

(All photos by Jake Trauscht)

Saturday, November 12, 2011

Backcountry Ski Clothing Systems -- What works, and what doesn't?

Me and the Dorais Bros after linking up lots of lines in Hogum -- the Hulk Hogum.  I'm wearing a Patagonia Traverse
 on top of a thin Smartwool top, Dynafit tights, and a harness.
From 2011-03-20
Over the years, I've put a fair amount of thought, effort, and $ into figuring out an optimal clothing system.  It's a work in progress, but here are some thoughts on what works and what doesn't work, along with my favorite "pieces."

I ski mostly in the Wasatch range, which is not known for particularly harsh weather.  We get a fair amount of snow, but we also have our fair share of nice clear days.  Mid-winter, when it snows, the snow is relatively dry although on both ends of the season, it can be a bit soggy.  Morning temperatures (when I do most of my stuff) range from 0 to 30 mid-winter, and in the transition season can range from 20 to 45.

What Works?

Since 90 percent of time spent in the backcountry is spent on the uptrack, it makes sense to dress for the uptrack -- to dress in a way that your body can breathe and not sweat too much.  My objective in dressing is to put barely enough clothes on so that I don't freeze, but never so much that I overheat and sweat.  I always layer, but the question is what should I use for each layer?

Baselayer:  Typically, I will wear a thin base layer on the top.  I want something skin tight, that will wick sweat away, and that will not bind on upper layers.  My favorite thin base layers are made by Patagonia (Capilene) and Smartwool (women's models that popped up on Steep and Cheap).  Depending on what I expect, I'll vary the piece.  If it's not going to be too cold or windy, sometimes I will go short sleeve.  But most of the time I'll go thin long sleeve.  Occasionally, I'll go short sleeve and long sleeve.  Sometimes, if I think I might have reason to take my mid layer off or if it's really cold, I will go heavier duty long sleeve (Capilene midweight zip top).  I prefer zip-tops because they give me an additional ventilation option.

I choose my baselayer, thinking that I don't want it so warm that I have to remove my mid-layer.  Occasionally, I'll remove my midlayer, but I prefer not to for a couple reasons: 1) it takes time, and 2) I don't like my avalanche beacon exposed.

On the bottom, my baselayer is always thin.  Sometimes short, sometimes long, depending on whether I expect cold and wind.

Wearing a Smartwool baselayer, forced to remove my mid-layer (Marmot Driclime) in the sun.
A few hours later, I was wearing the Driclime, a Thermawrap, and a Nano Puff

Top Mid-Layer:   I choose my mid-layer, thinking that this will often be my outer layer on the uptrack.  And, as I mentioned, I choose it, hoping that I won't have to take it off on the uptrack.  The most ideal characteristics for this layer are: (a) breathable, (b) light, (c) somewhat wind resistant.  This layer cannot be too insulating, otherwise, I will sweat too much on the uptrack.

I have two favorite "mid-layer" pieces.  The first is a Patagonia Traverse Pullover, made of a light stretch woven material.  It is light, breathable, and wind resistant.  It has a deep zipper that I can open for ventilation, if needed.  I recently misplaced it in Andy's Black Hole (his Subaru) and went OCD until he guaranteed me that he had it in his possession.  This piece keeps me relatively dry on top, but shuts out wind.  This is important because, in the mountains, it is rarely dead calm.  Any slight breeze has a tendency to chill your body if it is coated with a layer of perspiration.

My second favorite piece is a Marmot Driclime wind shirt.  This piece is nylon on the outside and has a Driclime liner underneath.  This liner provides some insulation and is a notch warmer than my Patagonia Traverse shirt.  Still, it breathes well, and shuts the breezes out.

In addition to these pieces, I might add a very very thin nylon shell.  My favorites are Patagonia's Houdini and Montbell's Tachyon jacket.

Montbell Tachyon and Dynafit Tights
From Uintas

If it's going to be cold, I'll take both layers because they are very light and hardly carry any sort of weight or space penalty.  On a particularly cold day on Roger's Pass, I skinned 10k wearing some combination of these shirts/jackets.

Pants:  Yes, here it comes . . . . I love to skin and ski in tights.  I was a closet tight-wearer prior to 2009.  But in 2009, I went to Europe and observed hundreds if not thousands of skiers rocking tights.  Fat skiers, skinny skiers, rando racers, and non-rando racers -- many wore tights.  These tights, weren't just any sort of tights, but they were tights designed specifically for skiing.  Dynafit, Montura, and Crazy Idea make ski tights. Unfortunately, it's tough to find their offerings in North America.  Tragedy.  Travesty.  Shame.  America, embrace the tights!

The ski tights that I like are generally made of a thin stretch woven or lycra, and have sturdy material built in to the cuffs to protect against ski edges, boots and the like.  A number of manufacturers make decent substitutes.  Although these do not rise to the level of the tights (in sheer coolness and functionality), they suffice, and I often wear them.  To name a few:  Patagonia Simple Guide or Alpine Guide Pants, Marmot Scree or Cortina Pants, Stoic (Backcountry.com's brand) Microlith Pant.  All of these are light stretch woven material, but aren't cut as tight as tights.

Outerlayers: Outerlayers come into play if the mid-layer isn't enough against the wind, cold, snow, ice, spit, whatever.  Mostly, they come into play when you top out, and ski down.  The first thing my partners and I do when we top out is drop our packs and pull out an outer layer.  For me, usually this is an insulating layer with a wind/water resistant shell.  My go-to outer piece is my Montbell Thermawrap jacket.  It packs small, is very light, and for it's weight, is very warm.  On top of that, because it is synthetic, it insulates even when wet.  My Thermawrap has a great hood.  Like my other layers, it fits trimly.  This piece is usually sufficient to protect me on the top, and on the ski down.  In nasty weather, it's wind/water resistant and breathable enough that I'll use it on the uptrack.  One of the best pieces out there in my opinion.

Climbing up in the Thermawrap on a blustery cold day.  Photo by Jason Dorais
Sometimes, a Thermawrap isn't enough.  If it's not enough because it is too cold, then I layer another Thermawarp or a Patagonia Nano Puff jacket over or under.  And if that's enough, I will put yet another of the same over that.

One of my favorite nuking-weather outerlayers for the uptrack is a Patagonia Essenshell.  The material is silicon impregnated nylon.  It is breathable and "hard" enough that it sheds precipitation.  It is probably 10 years old, but I still like it a lot.  My theory is that the more breathable my hardshell is, the more likely it will be that the heat from my body will dry my inner layers.  My theory also is: I don't like skinning in a sauna.

If the above is not enough because it's full-on nuking, then (and only then) will I consider a hard shell (Gore tex, etc), and probably only for the downhill.  Wearing a hard shell on the uptrack is like wearing a garbage bag.  Unfortunately, even the best materials (Goretex Pro Shell for example) cannot let enough perspiration and vapor out on the uptrack, unless, of course, you go slow.  If I'm forced to wear a hard shell, then I'm forced to go slow.

On the bottom, I have some cover pants that are a windproof softshell on the front (like Powershield), and a stretchy thicker lycra on the back.  These are full zip pants that allow me to put them over my tights without removing my boots.  I've found these to be quite useful, but unfortunately, I've not identified any company in the US that makes/distributes these.  When I know I might have to sit or stand around, or when I might be out for the night, I carry Montbell Thermawrap pants.  They pack small and are quite light.  Again, being able to layer even on the bottom is important to properly regulate clothing needs.

I rarely rarely will ever subject myself to skinning in hard shell pants.

What Doesn't Work.


Cotton baselayers, or anything cotton for that matter.  Cotton does not wick well.  It dries slowly, and it is heavy.

- Fleece baselayers or mid layers or outerlayers. For backcountry skiing, I don't like fleece because usually, it's either too warm or not windproof enough.  On top of that, it does not compact well and is relatively heavier, compared to a synthetic insulation or down.  The one exception might be a Patagonia R1, which is a very thin fleece, on a cold day or where I anticipate some slow going, e.g., ice or rock climbing.  I'd use this as a base or mid layer.

- Hard shells.  See above.  Sometimes they are necessary, but I see way too many people rocking the latest and greatest flashiest Goretex in the backcountry.  Not necessary.  Not desirable.

- Most conventional "Softshells."  I have had success with Schoeller and stretch woven materials, but I've found that these aren't as versatile.  I used the original Cloudveil Serendipity jacket for a few years, but ultimately concluded it was a bit too warm and too heavy.  I've never found a good use for Polartec Powershield because it doesn't breath as much as I need.  And it's bulky and heavy in comparison to a thin, tightly-woven, stretch woven or nylon.  I have two Powershield-type jackets that I've won in various races, but the only time I see myself using them is on a spring resort day or a cold climbing day (when breathability isn't as crucial).  My preference is a simple, non-insulated, stretch woven soft shells, like the Patagonia Traverse, but it seems that in order to marketable, softshells need more bells and whistles.  Simpler is better.

So, what works for you?  Any ideas?

Thursday, November 3, 2011

What not to do on a day off...

When you get one day off a week, the pressure is on to make each one count.  Here is a list of what not to do...

1. Wake up early.
2. Head up a resort with just enough snow to persuade you to skin from the car.
3. Follow a crazy samurai to the base of an obscure, very thin, ice climb that is aptly named, "Rookie Party", even though you know it's not likely climbable in the current conditions.
4. Allow said samurai to scratch around, while getting cold and scared (for him).  
5. Finally, convince the samurai to wisely turn around, still earning him the "Bail of the Day!"
6. Don the skis to make cautious turns until something breaks (luckily just my will to keep rock skiing).  
7. Walk a couple miles over snow dusted talus and cat tracks back to the car.  

Jared trying to decide if he really wants to commit to crappy rock, bad ice, and even worse pro.


Making the right choice
All sarcasm aside, it was still a fun morning and once the ice fills in, we will be back for a great day of playing in the mountains.